RAPHAEL'S BAR-RISTO,

We've enjoyed Raphael's in several incarnations, beginning at the South Water Street digs, including a sojourn in East Greenwich (sold eight months ago) and now, at its location off Kennedy Plaza for the past four years. Partly it's because we like stepping through Raphael's revolving door and feeling as if we're in a completely new world, transported by the chic design elements of co-owner Elisa Conte. And partly it's because co-owner and executive chef Ralph Conte shares his wife's flair for the unusual, but directs it toward the food. Recently, Ralph revamped his menu with a concern for getting back to a dish's basic ingredients and not over-garnishing the Italian lilies that are his forte. New among the appetizers are fried zucchini flowers with ricotta dumplings and littlenecks zuppa. We were in the mood, however, to start-off with shrimp, in this case, roasted with fresh mozzarella over sliced tomatoes with black olive puree ($11). After his first forkful, Bill said, with characteristic brio: "I don't ever want shrimp that's not like this!" The cheese and shrimp were great dancing partners, as were the olive puree and the tomatoes. Scrumptious!

Full review.